In Memphis, cultures, food and music meld in an American original.
Courtesy of Odyssey Couleur Magazine
By Gilda Rogers
Along the mighty Mississippi River rests Memphis, Tennessee, stunningly clad in authenticity. A part of the "dirty South"-and that should not be confused with the South's current appellation as the dominant force in hip-hop-Memphis once exploited slave and sharecropping labor to cultivate its most prominent industry, cotton. Today, in a paradoxical twist, Memphis now celebrates the past, resurrecting its soul to proclaim bragging rights as the place that "gave birth to the blues"-the sound of dirt-poor black field laborers singing of their sorrows and triumphs.
This amalgamation of old meets new and the linking of black and white culture lends itself to a swank and invitingly fresh attitude. This is the character of Memphis that makes it undeniably cool. To experience Memphis is to taste these culminating flavors that infiltrate its food, along with a fusion of gospel, blues and R&B that is inherent in the music. Welcoming visitors to Memphis, the resplendent Peabody Hotel, which dates back to 1869, strikes a posh pose that is significant to the downtown Memphis skyline. The festooned horse-drawn buggies still line up in front of the Peabody, where you can see old-fashioned trolley cars criss-crossing the streets. Here you'll see the traditional parade of ducks at 11 a.m. and 5 p.m. making their way to and from their wading pond, located in the middle of a grand lobby that continues to attract throngs of people.
For a delectable start to your day, lunch at McEwen's restaurant, with its hearth brick décor, might just do the trick. Located in downtown Memphis, McEwen's serves up pan-seared scallops accompanied with stone ground cheddar cheese grits, followed by its ultra famous banana cream pie that will make you shout, "Hallelujah!"
However, to truly experience Memphis is to be moved by its music-namely, the sound of authentic blues found on Beale Street. Made famous by the "Father of the Blues," W.C. Handy, who penned its musical legacy-the "Beale Street Blues"-the street still pays host to a sea of all-night revelers who traverse its neon-lighted corridor and dart in and out of such blues clubs as Rum Boogie. These blues travelers are treated to the great musicianship of storytelling [ital]griots[ital], who effortlessly turn misery into a celebratory happening.
If the blues is not your thing, you're invited to party on the rooftops of some of Memphis' swankest hotels, including The Peabody. The view of the mighty Mississippi River from the rooftop of the 16-story Madison Hotel is an amazing sight. Imagine the backdrop of a brilliant sunset and the ringing of a riverboat bell-not once, but four times, each one calling for a special toast to the sunset, the river, the people of Memphis and the country. The party is dubbed "Atop the Madison" and takes place every Thursday evening throughout the summer. The Madison is not your cookie-cutter hotel, but rather a decorative work of art courtesy of a designer palette of smoke black and rust décor and mixed-media prints, with rooms starting at $235 per night and suites at $350. You are ensconced in a lap of luxury at the Madison, which invites its guests to start off their day on the rooftop pavilion with a spectacular breakfast consisting of marinated summer berry martini, followed by a gruyere and bacon quiche, topped off with grilled pears.
From fine dining to more fine dining, the Inn at Hunt Phelan harkens back 177 years, when this stately mansion, now turned into a bed and breakfast and four-star French-Creole restaurant, posed as a retreat for the Union General Ulysses S. Grant. A tunnel which ran beneath the site was a part of the Underground Railroad. A historical sanctuary, the Inn at Hunt Phelan also established itself as one of the first Freedmen schools in Memphis for emancipated slaves. It has retained many of its original light fixtures and fireplaces. Bed and breakfast rates start at $240, while the comfort of its outside veranda surrounded by luscious greenery compels you to order a mint julep.
Meanwhile, the sign in the window at Sun Records recording studio, where such musical icons as B.B. King, Ike and Tina Turner, Bobby Blue Bland, Elvis Presley, Jerry Lee Lewis and a host of others got their start, says it best: "Hip long before hop was added."
Yes, Memphis is hip. And it is in Memphis where the sacred ground of the many sights and sounds of American culture-black and white-come together and make for a life-altering experience.
Gilda Rogers is a freelance writer based in New Jersey.
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Memphis Matters
Memphis is grounded in rich cultural history that has been superbly preserved at museums spread throughout the city. This year, the city is abuzz as "Memphis Celebrates 50 Years of Soul, 1957-2007." Be sure to check out these destination on your visit.
Stax Museum of American Soul Music926 E. McLemore Ave.
staxmuseum.com
Make sure you visit the Stax Museum, a 17,000-square-foot, state-of-the-art facility that profoundly gives you the lineage of American Soul Music, housing over 2,000 artifacts. It is where such legendary performers such as Otis Redding, Sam and Dave, Isaac Hayes, The Staple Singers, Carla and Rufus Thomas and so many more pioneered this sound. Adjacent to the museum is the Stax Music Academy for at-risk children, where many of the performers of yesterday are helping to cultivate the musical talent of today's youth.
National Civil Rights Museum450 Mulberry Street
www.civilrightsmuseum.org
This museum, formerly the Lorraine Motel, where Dr. Martin Luther King was assassinated, is a living monument to the African-American struggle.
The Cotton Museum at the Memphis Cotton Exchange 65 Union Avenue
Here you'll discover "the plant that changed the world." This interactive museum is located on the original site of the Memphis Cotton Exchange that was established in 1873 and became Memphis' largest industry. A video gives you the background of this formidable industry, along with an array of compelling displays.
The Gibson Guitar Factory Tour145 Lt. George Lee Ave.
This place gave birth to "Lucille," the famous guitar that helped make B.B. King who he is. This tour is a must-see, located one block away from Beale Street.
Blues City Cafe138 Beale Street
www.bluescitycafe.com
If southern fried catfish, barbecue ribs and pulled pork are what you're looking for, you'll find them here. Famous for its tamales, the Blues City Cafe features live nightly entertainment.
